Zardozi, an ancient Persian art, meaning "gold embroidery," has been a cherished craft for centuries, once reserved for royalty. Originally, pure gold and silver threads were used, but copper is now often used to reduce costs. Lucknow is famous for its Zardozi, alongside other handicrafts like chikankari and kamdani. The embroidery process begins with adda bichana, where four wooden planks are joined to create a frame.
The fabric is tightly stretched and secured with strong thread (taankna). The design, often featuring motifs like elephants, peacocks, or floral patterns, is then transferred onto the fabric (chapayi). Using a special wooden needle called muthiya, craftsmen stitch the design by pulling threads beneath the fabric while tying each stitch from below. Zardozi work typically involves metallic springs (saadi and naksi) and is done on various fabrics, including silk, cotton, and velvet. Once finished, the fabric is removed from the frame and delivered to the client, showcasing a beautiful, durable piece of art.
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