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‘Chapaayi’ is the process of printing the pattern on the base fabric. Tie-dyed georgettes, pastel chiffons, tussar silks, crepes and khaadi-cottons are commonly used materials. Firstly, the fabric is tied to two sides of a wooden frame (known as ‘khaat’) using thick cords. Tracing paper with perforated pattern known as ‘khaaka’ is placed on the fabric and rubbed with a white paste of chalk powder, making the design appear on the fabric.

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