Dharmavaram Silk Weaving 2
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The dyed yarn is wounded to the ‘dolu’ or warping machine.
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A thread is inserted to examine the breakages and to avoid entangles.
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Ends of the warprolls are taken and wound on the ‘dolu’.
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Checking for the Knots and joining the breakages.
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Spreading the warp evenly across the machine for rolling the warp.
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This process of rolling gives maximum uniformity and tension to the warp.
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The density of the thread in the warp determines the fabric quality.
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The warp is wounded to a iron rod finally.
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The Zari(golden thread) spools are arranged on warp machine for warping.
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Each strand from each spool is taken and wounded into zari warp.
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Zari is loaded to the loom for exclusive borders and pallu designs.
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Prepared warpis ready for the weaving process.
The warping process is done after dyeing the yarn to make silk saris. The warping machine called ‘Dolu’ in local language is used for the entire process of warping. The thread rolls are put on the vertical frame of the warping machine, which is amovable frame. The ends of the thread are taken from the rolls and are wound on the big wooden cylinder of the machine. This process starts from oneend of the big octagonal cylinder and goes on till the entire cylinder is covered with yarn. The tightly wound yarn on this log is then provided to the weaver to use it for the warp on the loom frame. The entire length of the warp is a stretch of 75 meters long from which 10 saris can be woven at a time. Zari also goes through the warping process and this is later used for sari borders and pallu to be woven with brocaded gold patterns. This warping process is documented from the Silk city of Dharmavarm, located in Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh.
For more details:
http://dsource.in/resource/dharmavaram-silk-weaving
