Dhoti Weaving
Melukote previously weaved more of cotton Dhotis, nowadays they have undertaken the weaving of silk dhoti which is mostly provided by the Priyadarshini Organization. As per the pattern the Silk yarns are taken for the warping and the weft purpose.
The yarns are generally provided with required designs as per the length and width of the dhoti. Weaver is responsible for the wastes more than 100 gm and has to give an account to yarn material as it is very costly. Generally zari threads are spread on the borders and off white yarns of silk or cotton on the body part of the Dhotis. Throw shuttle pit looms are generally preferred in Melukote for the weaving of silk Dhotis. As Dhotis of the Melukote region are usually made white or off white in colour, so the length of yarns are kept of 4 meters and are spread out, the remaining yarns is rolled and tied with a cloth material and tightly twined such that it doesn’t get dirty it is locally called as Kunti (cloth beam). The warp yarns are passed through the Dobby mechanism for the border designs.
Weaver takes a lot of effort from the pre process to the weaving to ensure the right patterned Dhotis are woven. After it has been neatly spread out the weaver controls each part with the rope that moves from one end to the other end. Two pedals are pressed repeatedly by the foot of the weaver and the regular insertion of the throw shuttle, the yarns are inserted for weaving to take place. Borders are generally with the border design of the zari work with diamond and designs allotted to them.
This weaving follows the old tradition of the Dobby Mechanism with the punching cards along with wooden pegs. The wooden phiriki is used for winding the silk yarn to the pirns which is inserted in the throw shuttle for weaving. Warp yarns are divided into 6-8 sections and tied to the bamboo piece that becomes the warp beam.
