Warping Process

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Lungi Weaving - Vellore

South Indian Traditional Men's Wear

Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Divyadarshan C. S. and Amulya S.

Warping Process

Warping is a process of making the hank yarn to linear lengthy form in a huge warping wheel, which helps the yarn to take position of warping section for weaving. The dyed yarns are collected and spun onto the warping wheel were the yarn is counted with the length. Sometimes the yarn is first spun to warp wheel then sent to the dyeing process. Warping basically prepares a complete length and the width of the cloth, which later is stretched for street sizing and weaving.

After the warping is removed, the warp is giving for street sizing were the yarn is given strength and lubricate it with rice starch and coconut oil, which is called as sizing. This process is done basically in streets with five to six in a team. This process must be done in shade so that the starch applied is not vaporized before brush spreading it. The wrapped yarn is stretched between two poles, which seems like yoke of the bullock cart. The brush is local made of cereal grass roots, which is thick and strong and it helps in spreading the starch equally. After the street sizing the warp yarn is giving for weaving.

Winding is the process were the single dye colored yarn is spun to spools and prins with cabling and gassing process involved. This yarn is called as weft yarn, which is used like a sewing thread for weaving. Gassing and cabling process helps the yarn to become refine and embellished.

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Lungi Weaving - Vellore