Silk Weaving - Karaikudi
1. Winding, Doubling and Twisting: Raw silk is wound on the bobbin, doubled and then twisted for the warp and the weft preparations.
2. Degumming and Dyeing: Hank of yarn is degummed using soap and soda solution at alkaline pH level at near boiling temperature for a definite time and yarn is dyed using acid/ metal complex dyes at acidic pH level and glabour salt as a leveling agent.
3. Warping and Piecing: The warp threads are arranged (dressing) by stretching and looping in the open area by using stout bamboo rods. The newly prepared warp is attached to the corresponding thread of the previous saree (in case of same pattern), where the threads of the saree woven on the loom remains to knot to the preceding. This process is called piecing (knotting). This is a delicate and slow process which requires skill and patience.
4. Drawing and Denting: The warp is unrolled outside (street) to insert the lease rods and to mark the length of each saree by inserting bamboo sticks. The new warp which is being joined to the old warp by piecing is drawn forward through the healds and reed (locally called as Aluppiduthal).Warp is then rolled on the metal cylinder called as the warp beam.
5. Weaving: To weave the body and border portion, treadle is operated along with jacquard lever with great care and skill. Weft is inserted with hands by throwing a medium size shuttle from one end and beating the weft to the fell of the cloth. Narrow borders with an intermixture of ground colour are achieved by single shuttle, while broader borders of contrasting colours are woven using three shuttles. Small pirns of silk or Zari are used as shuttle for the weft insertion in case of small butta designs or motifs in the body for Pallu and borders. Motifs in the border and rich designs in the Pallu / Mundi are generated by pulling the lever connected to the jacquard boxes of different hook capacity.
