After spinning, the cotton yarn is rolled on the warp wheel from multi-ply spools. The yarn is wrapped manually in a "to and fro" movement aka Aasu. The accuracy of this tying process eventually determines the quality of design produced. After warping the yarn is twisted and folded and sent for weft process. Weft process is done twice, one's before dying and another time after dying.
Weft is prepared in two types:
This weft step entails preparation of yarn for resisting dye. The weft yarn is spread out horizontally from a reel on to a special frame, going to and fro between a bigger iron peg on one side and around smaller ones arranged in a semi-circle on the other side. The distance between the big and small pegs corresponds to the width of the finished fabric. This tool for grouping the weft is used typically in the Pochampally area, and not anywhere else. This process is one for dupatta, shall and scarf’s.
In another way the yarn is stretched and tied on either side. This process is done usually for saree, bed sheets and dress materials. After weft designs are drawn on weft thread and sent for tie and die process. Yarn is dyed in required color and dried in room temperature and then again sent for another round of weft process. This time threads are stretched and untangled and rolled and sent for jointing process.