With a stack of his blocked cloth, the shopkeeper travels different villages where he distributes the pieces to different women in same or different villages. The colours and threads are already decided either by the shopkeeper or by the buyer. Many women have started the use of frame as the cloth used nowadays is not coarse enough to be embroidered without a frame. Following the guidelines the embroidery is done from the top.
There are some women who do embroidery without any guidelines or any patterns drawn beforehand. These Phulkaris are known as “bolpuri”. Here the woman pulls a strand of thread as a mark of reference, and following that they do the embroidery.
Sometimes the embroidery is so thick that the Phulkari looks same on both the ends, such type is known as “kaeta Phulkari”.
The embroidery is done from top to bottom. Women have started using a combination of stitches like stem stitch, chain stitch, running stitch etc. Quality of a Phulkari have reduced tremendously, earlier where women would take years to finish a single Phulkari, women today are able to finish around 2-3 Phulkari in a month. Thus there is a wide range of Phulkari depending on the neatness of the embroidery.