Warping

Design Resource

Cotton Sari - Mangalagiri

The Art of Weaving

Prof. Bibhudutta Baral,Antony William andShruti K.

Warping

Warping is the special and important process of Mangalgiri sarees. The warping is carried out in streets preferably in the early morning, so that the color of the silk yarn does not fade. First the multi-ply spools are fixed to the warping machine (warping wheel), and the yarn is reeled on the warping machine. This Process is locally known as Assu.

After Assu process, the length of the yarn is removed from the warping wheel and tied between two poles and it is stretched. Entangles in the yarn are checked and the breaks are knotted. Bamboo sticks are inserted between the threads into the warp, as it is easy to trace the entangled cotton threads. Starch is sprayed on the threads. Starching is done so that the color in the yarn will get more permanent in nature and gives the yarn a polished look. Starching process is repeated 10 to 12 times, which makes the thread thick and strong. Starching also acts as gum while weaving, which helps the threads to interlock intensely. After starching the yarn is stretched and the strands of yarn is passed through the reeds and then rolled on an iron rod, which is fixed in loom to weave.

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Cotton Sari - Mangalagiri