First the fabric is cut to required length and width, folded to the required shapes and then inserted with sequins (chamki’s) wherever required and with the fusible technique or by hemming with the needle fixed to the base fabric. After the fabric is fixed to the base fabric the edges are given with straight stitches and satin stitches to overlap the edges.
Piece works of tissue fabric cut are referred to as chotti patti and badi patti as per the size of the fabric, also other design known as chota phul and bada phul referring to the flower pattern made with the cut fabric. Stem stitch is done wherever the stem pattern of design is on the fabric. Some of the famous applique works shamiana, canopies, chandowa which in some cases are also done with waste cloth. Some of the applique shamiana are used for religious and social gatherings.
Fabrics are cut with evenly spaced intervals in a strip of fabric, which is tucked under to leave a row of triangular points. Saw tooth edges are one of the common appliques that are widely used for border patterns. The strips are then neatly sewn on to the backing cloth, repetitive parts of the pattern are created by folding the fabric before cutting out the shapes.