Conch Shell Bangles - Kolkata
Traditionally, the artisans involved in conch bangle making are popularly known as ‘Sankhari’. Here their main goal goes into making conch bangles. The conch bangles are made in a step-by-step manner like as follows: Firstly, the front area of the shell is removed from the shell using a process named ‘Bhanga’. Once separated, the inner area of the shell is pierced, making a hole. This step is called ‘Phura’. After, ‘Phura’ comes ‘Genra’, which involves a cleaning process where the body of the snail residing inside the shell is removed and dipped in water for a couple of days to attain a soft texture to work on. In this solution, some amount of citric acid is also added to whiten the shells. These shells are then dried in the hot sun. Later, a perfect set of conch shells are separated and broken into two pieces from the middle. This attained particular part usually comes in a roughly round shape, which is then perfected using a grinding machine. The process of cutting conch is known as ‘Malui Daga’ or ‘Majar’. The polishing of the upper layer also takes place at this stage. It is followed by ‘Rekh Kata’ where the Majar is cut into several pieces, giving at least 3 to 5 bangles from one conch shell. Designs and patterns are engraved on these plain white conch bangles using a chisel and designing machines. Motifs ranging from flowers, leaves, animals, deities to historical images are used to embellish the ornament. As a final stage, the semi-finished bangles are polished by heating and applying nitric acid. In case defective bangles are spotted at this final stage, they are repaired using lac, zinc oxide, coal, wax, and wood.
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