Warping

Design Resource

Cotton Sari - Pochampally

Tie and Dye Weaves

Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Antony William and Shruti K.

Warping

After spinning, the cotton yarn is rolled on the warping wheel from multi-ply spools. The yarn is wrapped manually in a "to and fro" movement aka Aasu. The accuracy of this tying process eventually determines the quality of the design produced. After warping the yarn is twisted and folded and sent for the weft process. The weft process is done twice, one's before dying and another time after dying.

Weft is prepared in two types:

This weft step entails the preparation of yarn for resisting dye. The weft yarn is spread out horizontally from a reel onto a special frame, going to and fro between a bigger iron peg on one side and around smaller ones arranged in a semi-circle on the other side. The distance between the big and small pegs corresponds to the width of the finished fabric. This tool for grouping the weft is used typically in the Pochampally area, and not anywhere else. This process is one for dupatta, shawl and scarfs.

In another way, the yarn is stretched and tied on either side. This process is done usually for saree, bedsheets and dress materials. After weft designs are drawn on weft thread and sent for tie and dye process. Yarn is dyed in the required colour and dried at room temperature and then again sent for another round of weft process. This time threads are stretched and untangled and rolled and sent for the jointing process.

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Cotton Sari - Pochampally