Design Resource
Embroidered Hanky - Goa
Decorative Fabric
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baraland Srikanth B.
Introduction
A hemmed square of a thin cloth is known as a hankie, also called a handkerchief. Usually, it is carried in a pocket or purse, which is used for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one’s hands or face or blowing one’s nose. It is a form of kerchief basically made of thin fabric. Sometimes it is also used as a decorative accessory in a suit pocket, known as Pocket Square. Handkerchiefs are made from different types of materials such as cotton, silk, linen, and synthetic fabric. The term handkerchief is derived from two French words, couvrir, which means “to cover,” and chef, which means “head.” The English renamed it a handkerchief, as in “hand-cover-chief.”
Its origin can be traced back to 2000BCE. Wealthy Egyptians firstly used a bleached white linen handkerchief. China also used it around 1000 BCE to protect the head from the sun, as evidenced in some of the statues discovered from this period. By the 14th or 15th centuries, the handkerchief became famous throughout Europe, with the wealthy classes as an accessory. They were made using exotic materials such as silk and were embroidered to create beautiful patterns. French nobles were scented their handkerchiefs for a pleasant smell nearby. Queen Elizabeth was a fan of luxurious handkerchiefs embodied with gold and silver threads and received many gifted ones. During the 16th century, it was introduced as a fashion accessory. Earlier handkerchiefs were kept in pants pockets but gradually moved to the breast pockets of men’s suits and sport coats. When two-piece suits came into fashion during the 19th century, it turned into the more popular pocket square. By the 20th century, it became a fashion statement for both men and women.
A plain piece of cotton turned into a stylish, decorative accessory. The handkerchiefs are embellished with silk laces and embroideries. The art of decorating fabric or other materials with needles and thread or yarn is known as embroidery. It may also incorporate different materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. The origin of embroidery can be dated approximately 30,000 BC. It has been practiced for many years. Some of the earliest embroidery's basic stitches are running stitch, satin stitch, chain stitch, cross-stitch, and buttonhole stitch. These are the important techniques of hand embroidery. The primary stitching tool in embroidery is the needle, which is available in various sizes and types. The base material of the fabric is varying from place to place. Silk, wool, and linen have been in use for many years for both fabric and yarn. Though machine embroidery is also available yet, traditional hand embroidery is much more popular. Traditional folk techniques were passed from generation to generation. Intricately embroidered objects such as religious substances, clothing, and household items have been a mark of wealth and status in many cultures, including India, ancient Persia, Japan, Medieval and Baroque Europe.
Along with other objects, handkerchiefs are also decorated with bright-coloured yarns. These are used to match the sari or dresses worn by women. Ms. Sunanda is an artist who is an expert in handkerchief embroidery. She is from Goa, a state in India.
