Block and Hand Printing - Varanasi
The fabric is placed on a flat table covered with blanket and a layer of smooth waterproof cloth covering with starch paste, the cloth is pined at every ends of the wooden table. Artisans paint the fabric manually with the help of brushes like 8, 10 & 11 numbers that are available in flat and round shapes. The color is brushed on to the surface, each color requires a separate block and the brightest shades may be printed in same pattern as darkest without the risk of dulling. Fabric is dried for the block printing process and sarees with Jerry (Gold finish designs) work are focused with dark tones to highlight the jerry patters. Artesian colors the block by lowering it down onto the color tray, and once sufficient ink is lifted, it’s been pressed down to create the print patterns. Pins on the side of the blocks guides artesian in placing every block exactly into position. Accuracy and strength of color is effectively governed by the artisan’s ‘gut feeling’ on how much pressure needs to be applied to the back of the block. After each individual color has been laid the fabric is hung for 4-5 hours to let the thick water-based inks dry, before the next color is applied. A piece of paper is used while the process of block printing to prevent from printing unwanted areas and floral designs are overlapped when multiple colors are added on the fabric. Fabric is then boiled in 100 degree Celsius water for making it a chemical free material, prominent and permanent visibility. Ironing the fabric is an important part of the final product, after which the saree are been placed on a frame where two men iron the saree from both the ends. This process is followed with final folds and goes for the packing.
Ink is prepared by mixing Gum powder, Sodium Silicate, Relative colors, Caustic soda, Liquid soap and Ground oil after which it’s been mixed well until every molecule comes in contact with one another. The color is boiled in a container and glidant is added into container to improve its follow ability. These paints are available with chemicals and without chemicals. Colors like Tikan blue and Glydote-BD is mixed to gain the required color. Mixing process is followed until the ink turns to thick liquid.
Usually a set of ink is used consisting of at least three or four primary colors, namely cyan, magenta, yellow and optionally black. Some of which are manufactured in the town and nearby villages. The colors are mixed well and are boiled on the gas, mixed with Gum (Gundh).
