Tools and Raw Materials

Design Resource

Zardozi Embroidery of Allahabad

The Art of Decorating Cloth

Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Sushanth C. S., J. Antony William and Anushree Kumar

Tools and Raw Materials

• Tools:
Different tools used are as below:

Adda (Wooden Frame):
It is a wooden adjustable frame consisting of four wooden bars. The cloth on which the embroidery is supposed to be done is stitched on the two horizontal bars and stretched. It is then fixed tightly and locked on the other two vertically parallel bars. This prevents the cloth to move while working and also enables clear vision and faster movement of the tools.

Aari (Needle):
Needle is the main tool in the Zardozi embroidery. It has a hook at the tip and wooden handle at the back. For Zardozi work 10 no. needle is required. The cost of needles range from Rs. 5 - Rs. 10/-, depending on the quality of handle. The needles are also available with plastic and iron handle.

• Raw Material:
The raw materials required for making Zardozi embroidery are procured from the local market in bulk and stored for later use. The materials used are as following:

Gold and Silver Threads:
Originally the embroidery of Zardozi was done by using real gold and silver threads. These threads were made by the craftsmen themselves in the small workshops at their homes. The blocks of metals (gold and silver) were melted and pressed through iron sheets having perforations to make thin wires.

The size of the perforations varied according to the requirement of the threads. Simple plain wire is called as Badla. These Badlas are sometimes wrapped around a thread and is called Kasav. The twisted wire is called as Nakshi.

Metal Wires:
In recent times the original gold and silver has been replaced by metal wire made out of copper and resham threads. Anchor threads are also commonly used these days.

Dabka and Sitara :
Dabka and Sitara are used as embellishments in the Zardozi embroidery. These are spring kind of threads. They are cut into small size and used as per the requirement. Sitara are small spangles, golden or silver color.

Kardana and Poot ki Mooti (Beads):
Artisans also use beads as and when required. These beads come in different shapes and sizes and are named accordingly. The glass beads with cylindrical structure are called Kardana and very small spherical beads are called Poot ki Mooti.

Shiny stones:
These stone which resembles like diamonds are used to embellish the product. These are available in different shapes, sizes and colors. Fevicol is used to paste the shiny stone on the cloth. Tracing paper is used for tracing the motifs.

Kadiya (Chalk Powder):
It is used in the solution for tracing the motifs. Mitti ka tel (Kerosene Oil) is used to mix with chalk powder.

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Zardozi Embroidery of Allahabad