Lambani Embroidery - Bijapur, Karnataka
Lambani embroidery is a combination of colorful threads, design patters, mirror work, stitching patterns applique or patch work. Embroidery is done on thirteen different colors of base fabric among which dark blue or red are commonly used. Base fabric used is basically hand loomed but now they also use readymade available fabric. The cloth is made of cotton khadi dyed with chemical or vegetable dyes made from Rathanjot, Kattha, Chawal Kudi, Pomegranate peel, etc. There are 14 types of stitches used in Lambani embroidery. They are Kilan, Vele, Bakkya, Maki, Suryakanti Maki, Kans, Tera Dora, Kaudi, Relo, Gadri, Bhuriya, Pote, Jollya, Nakra. It also includes running stitches which appear like small dashes that creates a variety of patterns on the cloth. It is stitched with parallel lines and a thread of different color is interwoven between the stitches to create a horizontal pattern. Other than that criss cross pattern, chain stitch and overlaid quilting stitch are also made.
Design Patterns:
• Lambani embroidery consists of random designs stitched with bright color thread.
• The patters are usually created all over to cover the base fabric. Geometrical patterns like square, circles, rectangular and diamond shapes are embroidered with contrasting color threads and decorated with shells, coins, mirror and beads, etc.
• Applique or patchwork is other type of design patterns created on base fabric. Fabric is cut into desired shapes such as triangle and stitched on the base cloth with edges being nearly turned. Applique works are generally made on borders to create a pleasant pattern.
• The quilting stitching is done on the edges of the garment which is known as “Katta”. This embroidery is generally done with mirror work to produce shimmer and color.
Initially patterns for the design are drawn on cardboard and cut respectively. These stencils are used to mark patterns on the fabric. A rough design is marked on the areas where the designs are required to be embroidered on the fabric. With a marking pencil the complete design to be embroidered is drawn. With different color of embroidery threads the patterns are embroidered. Different types stitch patterns are used while embroidering to give the design a unique look. Combination of vibrant color threads makes the design more striking. The center of the designs is embellished with mirror works. The mirror is placed on the fabric and the thread is embroidered over it to captive the mirror in the thread which prevents it from falling off. Traditionally Lambani embroidery was made of wool, cotton, silk, gold or silver threads which added richness to the work. Some of the embroideries are made separately on strip of fabric which is later cut and stitched to desired wear. Earlier the Lambani women use to make only skirts and blouses for the neighbors who admired their work and asked to make one for them and give. Later the Government and other NGOs took interest in their work and gave them chance to work with them on other products designed with their art. These projects also gave employment to many Lambani women to earn wages to run their house. The pricing range of the articles starts from Rs. 150 to Rs. 600 for small work whereas and embroidered saree costs around Rs. 4000. The price depends on the intricacy of the design and size of the embroidered work. Products made of such embroidery have wonderful textures and a unconventional style, making them popular for tourists.
